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The Sikaflex marine sealant is excellent for sealing and bonding. The white Sika will discolour to a yellowy colour in time though. Make sure the suface you are bonding to is sealed well and clean before you fit the venturi.
Use plenty of masking tape on everything and use disposable gloves as Sikaflex gets very messy. Use turps for clean-up. I highly recomend spending the extra $$$ on the green masking tape.
Please note that boat building advice should be in the ” Boat Construction” section of this forum. That way others can find advice later when repairing and building their boats.Craig
Hi Ollie,
It’s a bit hard to tell what is happening from your description. Post a photo of the problem or give me a call and I might be able to help. Where are you located?
CraigJust saw this post. I think Harold is on the money. With careful planning you should be able to pass ply through the inspection ports. Removing the inspection ports will give you more room and you could possibly upsize them too. Cutting holes is an option but unless you know what you are doing it probably won’t look pretty when you are done. I build fibreglass Sabres so if you want advice give me a call. Craig 0417172453. Where abouts are you located?
This is my opinion. Keep it low but have clearance over your toe straps. This will give best purchase. Too high and the block will swing sideways as you trim therefore using a lot of energy to achieve nothing. Although a lot of sailors have the ratchet block on boom and standard block attached to boat which will help overcome the swing. Attach shock cord near outer edge of thwart and run through block attachment to hold your block up from floor.
Hi Ryan,
What state are you in? Would mylar templates be suitable for the digitizing process?
Craig.Some links here for pics of sabre building
http://www.boatinghardware.com.au/customer-projects/sabre-build/
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Sabre-Dinghy/From the Sabre forum- viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1975#p4202
FYI. I use short paint rollers for wetting/spreading fibreglass. Harold uses the squeegee method. Either way keep the resin to a minimum but be careful not to go too light as the ply can soak up a little causing the fibreglass to go dry and weak. Do not try to glass when it is too cold as the resin is hard to work with. 22 -25 degrees seems to be ideal. Hotter works too but reduces working time.
West systems resin is good but not the only type you can use. Well worth reading the info they publish. Most is available online. Their filler and glue powders are expensive. I use Q-cells for filler and fumed silica (Cabosil) for glue and a mixture of both for filleting. This stuff is cheap and easy to get.Here is a good tip well worth knowing. A small amount of Cabosil mixed with Q-cell/epoxy filler make it spread much nicer.
Craig
I have only built a FRP Sabre so I am far from being an expert on ply boats. One thing that I have learned is that many of the ply hulls develop cracks on the floor right next to the stiffening ribs. This seems to be caused by the odd heaving landing after a bad tack or near capsize. What I am getting at here is to at least glass the inside of the hull between the centre case to roughly one metre back from cenre case.
Give me a call if you get a chance. I have a bit of info that is not common knowledge yet that will likely help you with your ply boat construction.
Craig 0417172453.Hi Wayne,
There is discussion on this on the forum somewhere. From memory the ply can be glassed on the inside prior to stitching but gets very hard to bend the bow to the right shape if you glass too far forward. From what I know the outside gets glassed later. If you trawl the forum threads you should find most of what you need to know.
There are plenty of guys out there who have built these fine sailing machines. I’m sure someone can post here with acurate info.
CraigGet a Sabre. You will love it.
I am just over 90kg and got 20th overall in the last nationals sailed mostly in moderate weather. My best result, 6th, was in the lightest race that was completed. My next best result, 11th, was is 35 kont gusts. They have a trophy for over 90kg in the Nationals. That got me a nice Ronstan watch.
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Any YMS should be fast (they have won the last 9 nationals) and have proven longevity. You should use one of the stiffer mast sections like a Binks and have a reasonably full sail. My sail is made by Hill Sails in W.A. and performs superb in all conditions.
My hull is built from the original YMS moulds which I now own. If you are looking for a new boat I will be able to sort that out for you.Craig
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