Construction query

[Anonymous]

Hi
The construction notes are out of date in a lot of areas. Its good to get hold of the West System guide to epoxy for boats. It shows the importance of filleting the taped joint. That is running a bead of filler epoxy in the corner about the radius of your finger. Its very much stronger that way. You also cover the ties which you can pull out from the other side later. I’ve only used copper ties.

Glassing the inside of the cockpit is best done with the panels flat before assembly but dont go past the centrecase bulkhead or you might have trouble bending the ply. I use a broad scraper like a paint scraper. You can get very cheap white plastic ones about 90mm wide and the resin just flicks off where it is set. Spread it out as thinly and evenly as you can without letting the glass appear white. Resin is heavy and expensive. 100oz glass is OK, 70 if you can get it. I did the whole of the outside too rather than use tape on the seams.

4mm ply for the whole boat is fine and will measure. There are a few changes to the rules passed this year which are on the web site and probably not in your guide. You should read them. Floor stiffeners can now extend to the web bulkhead. Mast support web can be one piece. Timber sizes are advisory. There are minor changes to the way the hull is measured which should not affect you.

email me if you need more help

Harold Medd. Vic State Measurer. [email protected]

[Anonymous]

Thank you Harold for your suggestion. I have printed off some of the user guides from the west system site. I would imagine I will be drawing on the knowledge of yourself and others during the build.
On the subject, you mention you can pull copper wire through hardened epoxy ??

Regards John

Northern Territory

[Anonymous]

I treated my wire with a Teflon based spray before I wired up the hull and the wire pulled out very easily.

[Anonymous]

Thanks JohnL for the answer on the wire adhesion.

Regards

[Author]

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