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Viewing 3 posts - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)
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  • in reply to: Venturies #6891
    andrewr
    Participant

    Hi,

    The class rules determine where you can put the self bailers – so check the rules first. It is compulsory to have one up next to the centreboard case. If you put a second one in, it must be on the opposite side of the boat towards the stern.

    Personally, I find one self bailer to be adequate. Some feel you need the second one in the stern for when going downwind in strong wind and waves because when planing the water collects at the back of the boat. However, I’ve only ever had this problem once – and that was because water was squirting up through the centreboard case like a fountain. My experience is that if you make your centrecase slot close to the minimum width (14 mm) the water doesn’t squirt up, so you don’t need the extra self-bailer!

    I’m not sure what others use for sealant, but I use silicon.

    Alan Riley
    Sabre 1564

    in reply to: WHAT MAKES A FAST MAST #6833
    andrewr
    Participant

    Hi,

    The main thing that makes a mast “fast” is that it bends to suit the sail set on it.

    As far as where fittings should go, the rules tolerances are pretty tight for most things, so there is not much to play with. The things I would do are:

    1. try to get the maximum distance between the gooseneck and the vang fittings by putting the gooseneck as high as possible and the vang fitting as low as possible (within the tolerances of the rules of course!). That way the vang will be as efficient at producing leech tension as possible.
    2. make sure the distance between the two black bands is the maximum allowable under the rules.
    3. make sure the mast is as short as possible under the rules – no point carrying extra weight aloft and the sail can only go as high as the top black band anyway.
    4. cut out the minimum of sail track for the sail entry point. To ensure maximum strength it is probably best to just bend/widen the sail track with pliers or multi-grips (just be careful not to crack the aluminium when doing this).

    There are proposals to remove both the black bands and the limitations on the boom vang fixture point. However, they may not ever be passed, so it’s best to stay within the rules as they currently stand.

    Regards,

    Alan Riley
    Sabre 1564

    in reply to: Fibreglass Sabre Hull Shapes #6834
    andrewr
    Participant

    Hi Matt,

    I sail a Botterill hull, but I can’t tell you what the difference is between the shapes of the Yachtcraft, YMS and Botterill. All I know is that the Botterill is fast! What I am interested to know is why you think the rocker measurement is important? There is only a few millimetres tolerance in the rules (max. 15mm) on the rocker so I can’t see that fiddling with it will make that much difference!

    Alan Riley
    Sabre 1564

Viewing 3 posts - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)